Our guest blogger Scott recently returned from a trip to France to visit friends in Paris before taking the high-speed train to Burgundy to cheer cyclists in three of the twenty-one stages of this year’s Tour de France. In addition to spectating, he had the opportunity to cycle, to explore several of the towns and villages of Burgundy, and to enjoy the food and wine for which the area is known. Here are some of his favorite experiences.
Semur-en-Auxois
Burgundy (Bourgogne in French) is a region located in east-central France; it’s an hour and a half train ride from Paris to Dijon, the capital of Burgundy. This month, I traveled to Burgundy to stay with my friend Michel who spends some part of every summer based near Semur-en-Auxois, a medieval town that features cobbled streets, a 13th century gothic church, and four large stone towers—the only remains of the original 13th century castle. The home in which we stayed is located on a hillside overlooking a lake, providing a perfect spot to sit and enjoy a glass of wine from a local vineyard. It was from this base that we drove to different cities in the region to explore, cycle, and watch the Tour.
1. Cycle Burgundy
We were able to squeeze in two days of riding before we put our bicycles away to watch the professional cyclists. The first day, we rode part of the path laid out for Stage 8 of the Tour, which took us through the hilly terrain beginning on the cobblestones of the town center of Semur-en-Auxois and continuing through pastures and past farms. We saw some of the many bicycle sculptures created by locals along the path of the upcoming stage.
Local bicycle sculpture
We rode up to the Château de Posanges, a castle built in the 1400’s and surrounded by a mote, which was featured in a number of the Tour broadcasts. We had one of many cups of coffee at a roadside café. After that, we conquered one of the hills in the stage that was marked with a 9% grade sign. Seeing the professional cyclists race up that hill later that week, we had an even greater appreciation for their training and strength.
Château de Posanges
The second day of cycling, we rode the entire 25 km (approximately 15 miles) of Stage 7, the individual time trials, back and forth. We stopped to take pictures, which surely must have been the reason our times were not competitive.
2. Toast Chablis
An hour’s drive from where I stayed is the town of Chablis, an example of a medieval village, which is surrounded by the famous vineyards that produce dry white wine.
Ville Fleurie sign entering Chablis
During our three-hour ride the first day, we were able to enjoy the beauty of the churches, the vineyards, and the welcoming flower baskets hanging from balconies and terraces. Municipalities across France proudly display the “Villes et Villages Fleuris” signs, which are awarded in an annual contest with the mission of preserving biodiversity and encouraging environmentally friendly practices throughout France. Municipalities can be awarded between one and four flowers for the management of their municipal spaces.
After our ride, we stopped at a small producer winery for a private wine tasting that I scheduled ahead of time. After refreshing ourselves with a swim in the river next to the winery, we tasted several wines produced in Chablis, and enjoyed a basket of gougères, a savory pastry made with choux dough mixed with cheese—a classic snack in the area.
Since it rained off and on, I needed the layers of cycling apparel I’d packed, including my rain gear. This is when packing in zippered storage bags comes in handy. As I didn’t have easy access to a washing machine, I simply squeezed my sweaty cycling gear into the jumbo-sized storage bag to keep it separate from my clean clothes for the remainder of my trip.
3. Taste Dijon
Dijon, the historic and modern capital of the region of Burgundy, is known for its beautifully preserved architectural heritage, dating back to Medieval and Renaissance times. We drove to Dijon to see Stage 6 of the Tour de France, which ran 163.5 km from Mâcon to Dijon. Arriving two hours before we could enter our reserved viewing area, we walked through old Dijon and visited La Moutarderie Fallot to shop for mustard and other flavors of Burgundy to bring home as gifts. We ate lunch at a small brasserie in old Dijon, which included another glass of Chablis.
After lunch, we headed to our viewing area where we watched the “caravan,” a marketing parade of advertisers on foot and floats that rolls ahead of the Tour peloton (field of cyclists), giving away samples and trinkets to the crowds. The caravan builds the excitement of the crowd before the first riders appear, as much a part of the experience as the race. I returned home with an assortment of sunhats, keychains, books, and wine openers.
Tour de France caravan
After the caravan rolls by, official cars and motorcycles pass through the stage. This signals the approach of the cyclists who soon fly by the cheering crowd. After the finish of the stage, an award ceremony is held to acknowledge the stage winner and the cyclists who led some aspect of the Tour that day. They are awarded different colored jerseys, which they will wear for the next stage of the race (e.g., yellow to the overall leader, green to the best sprinter, polka dot to the best climber, and white to the best young rider). After the stage and its celebrations were completed, we headed back to our base in Semur-en-Auxois.
A Tour de France 2024 statue
The next day, we watched Stage 7, the first of two individual time trials in which we got to see each rider race against the clock. The third day, we watched the start of Stage 8 from our homebase in Semur-en-Auxois. Since the weather was variable during my visit, with some amount of rain every day, I was glad to have overpacked, so I was not at the mercy of the weather.
4. Visit Flavigny-sur-Ozerain
After we'd cycled and watched three stages of the Tour, we took the opportunity to explore the medieval town of Flavigny-sur-Ozerain. A winegrowing area since 1224, it was the memorable location for the filming of the movie Chocolat with Johnny Depp and Juliette Binoche. Located on top of a hill, surrounded by a medieval wall, it’s a beautiful place to explore. It’s also where I was able to stock up on one of my favorite treats, Les Anis de Flavigny, which is a tiny sugar candy with an aniseed center. We were able to tour the factory museum and store.
Anis des Flavigny Factory
When you visit any of the towns in Burgundy, be sure to visit the local marché, or farmer’s market. You won’t have to look far as they’re often located in the town center. They offer fresh fruits and vegetables, fish and meats, and local specialties, as well as services such as knife sharpening. You can pick up prepared chicken, cheese, bread, and dessert that will create an entire meal without any cooking. You’ll have nothing to do but open packages and uncork the wine.
Un marché
5. Be Guided
I was fortunate to have a cycling friend who spends some part of every summer in the area and was able to act as my tour guide. However, the absence of that should not stop you from visiting and enjoying the area. There are plenty of guided tours for sightseeing, tasting, and cycling. For destinations and activities, begin with La Bourgogne, Burgundy’s tourism site. Next, look for the guided tours offered by each city, including the Chablis Tourist Office and Discovering Dijon.
If you’d like to see one of the stages of the Tour de France, and to experience the carnival that is the caravan that precedes the riders, you can arrange for reserved viewing through Custom Getaways or the Tour de France Club. You can also schedule winery tours and tastings online.
Eat, drink, and cycle through Burgundy, if you get the chance!
-Guest Blogger Scott
Read more:
Summer Travel Tips for Cyclists and Other Sports Travelers
A Traveler’s Take on Paris: The 10 Places and Experiences You Shouldn’t Miss
11 Tips to Travel More Calmly and Comfortably this Summer
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